CAKA-KOUILLE

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A True Magical Wonka's Laboratory in Australia:

Zumbo Patisserie

I was thrilled to land a job at Zumbo Patisserie, a place I had long admired, especially after watching it featured on Netflix. The opportunity felt even more special because it came after several setbacks. I had failed a trial at a Greek restaurant and had been rejected more than 50 times while applying for pastry chef positions. Each rejection was disheartening, but landing the position at Zumbo felt like a breakthrough—a chance to prove myself in a pastry shop I had only dreamed of working in.

Having watched Adriano Zumbo’s Netflix series, it felt surreal to step into his kitchen. Even though I faced challenges when returning to Korea—where Zumbo wasn’t widely recognized, and some employers didn’t see it as a prestigious credential—I still look back on my time there with immense pride and gratitude. I remember being told, “Well, we don’t know much about Zumbo or Zumba or whatever, so I’m not sure if you’re qualified as a pastry chef. Sorry, but you’ll only get minimum wage.” Still, the experience at Zumbo was priceless, especially because of the genuine enthusiasm of the other pastry chefs. They were warm and supportive, never hesitating to share recipes and techniques. Their openness created an environment filled with creativity and passion, making the experience even more rewarding.

When I first started at Zumbo, I was incredibly nervous. I vividly remember my first trial with the head chef, Alice. My English was rough at the time; I could only respond with a nervous “Yes, Chef!” to every instruction. Thankfully, the chefs—from various parts of the world including Italy, Scotland, India, Pakistan, Indonesia, and Australia—were kind, patient, and supportive, even though I was still a beginner. One of the chefs, Matt, a chocolatier, was especially kind to me. I often followed him to learn the art of chocolate writing, and he always complimented me, especially on how I would go out of my way to help others in the kitchen. His encouragement made a big difference for me, especially in those early days.

Stepping into a Wonderland

There were two different themed shops next to each other: one was a brunch café, and the other was Zumbo's pastry shop where I worked. Walking into Zumbo’s shop felt like stepping into a wonderland—quite literally. The space was designed in a way that made you feel as though you were descending into a rabbit hole, with two-thirds of it exposed below ground. The adjacent café was inspired by Alice in Wonderland, complete with whimsical paintings, antique furniture, and unique lighting that added a magical charm to the space.

The pastry shop, on the other hand, was more modern and luxurious, almost like an evolved version of Wonka’s chocolate factory. The shop’s interior was striking—a bright pink neon sign illuminated the space with a candy-colored glow, creating an atmosphere that felt like a journey into the heart of confectionery art. Mirrored plastic wall panels gave the illusion of infinite depth, evoking memories of Andy Warhol’s Silver Factory. Everything was shiny, reflective, and futuristic. I often started my shift at 4 a.m., arriving from Murrumbeena to South Yarra, and in the silence of those early hours, the neon “Zumbo” sign was the only light shining in the silver-coated kitchen.


The Magic and Science of the Zumbo Kitchen

Zumbo’s kitchen was a mix of magic and science, where creativity met precision. It felt more like a chemistry lab than a traditional pastry kitchen. We used a variety of chemicals and stabilizers that I had never encountered at culinary school. Le Cordon Bleu had taught me the basics—the classic techniques—but Zumbo was about practical solutions for large-scale production. Using the right amount of stabilizers and chemicals resulted in light, indulgent textures and the perfect mouthfeel. It was a place where artistry and science were intertwined to produce not just pastries, but culinary experiences.

The variety of pastries we made each day was overwhelming and inspiring. From intricate tarts and mousses to signature creations like the V8 cake and the unique chouxmaca (a hybrid between a choux pastry filled with layered cake and topped with a macaron), everything was handmade with care and attention to detail. One of the highlights of the production was releasing seasonal and special occasion items, like Valentine's Day and Christmas. My personal favorite was creating gingerbread houses for the holiday season.

Another highlight was practicing my piping skills, though it was challenging. Piping rose-shaped Italian meringue on lemon tarts was one of the hardest techniques I tried. Chef Alice and Chef Lee were masters at it, and I would often try to sneakily observe their methods, hoping to pick up their technique. Even after all this time, I’m not sure I could replicate their perfect roses!

Learning in a Thoughtfully Designed Kitchen

One of the best parts about working at Zumbo Patisserie was learning from an incredible team of chefs and chocolatiers, all of whom brought their unique skills and perspectives. The kitchen was a space where craftsmanship met innovation, and I learned so much just by observing how everything came together smoothly. I like to break down my learning experience into three key areas:

  1. From the People: Working alongside these chefs was inspiring. It’s rare to find such a talented group of pastry chefs in one place. They were organized, disciplined, and knew exactly how to manage production. Unlike working in restaurants, where jealousy and competition are more common, the atmosphere at Zumbo was respectful and collaborative. Everyone supported each other. Even though Adriano Zumbo himself was mostly present through his shows, he had set a playful yet precise tone for the kitchen’s culture.

  2. Software (Recipes): The recipes were more than just a list of ingredients—they were formulas designed for large-scale production without compromising flavor. This systematic approach to pastry-making taught me how to think logically and how to maintain consistency across big batches.

  3. Hardware (Tools and Equipment): The kitchen was equipped with high-tech machinery and specialized tools. It felt more like a laboratory than a bakery, which made the entire production process feel professional and efficient.

The Challenges of Running a High-End Pastry Shop

Despite the magic happening in the kitchen, there were underlying challenges that eventually led to the closure of Zumbo's shops. One of the biggest challenges I noticed was waste. The intricate nature of our cakes, like the V8 with its 8 layers of different vanilla flavors and textures, required a lot of time and resources. Each cake could take multiple days to complete, which made it hard to keep up with production demands while maintaining quality.

The shop also had an overwhelming number of menu items, which made it difficult to track which products were the most popular. As a result, some resources were spent on items that didn’t sell as well as expected.

Labor costs in Australia were another factor. The labor-intensive nature of handmade pastries, combined with the country’s high wages, made it difficult to balance efficiency and profitability. While the artistry at Zumbo was undeniable, the financial sustainability of such an intricate production process proved to be a serious issue.

Zumbo’s Influence on My Career Path

Working at Zumbo Patisserie shaped my career in profound ways. It taught me the importance of logical problem-solving, but also how to maintain a playful and creative spirit. My time there gave me the confidence to push the boundaries of my creativity and led me to take a more experimental, fun approach to pastry-making.

One moment that stands out from my last day at Zumbo was when Chef Jacinta told me, "You will be a good pastry chef." It was so sweet and encouraging, filling me with pride as I reflected on how far I had come. On top of that, Chef Lee and the rest of the team surprised me with a gift—a book called The Tivoli Road Baker and a rolling paper filled with heartfelt messages from all my colleagues. It was such a touching gesture and made me feel truly appreciated.

After I moved to Canberra, Chef Duli provided a reference for me, which helped me secure a new job. I miss all the sweet people I worked with at Zumbo—kind, talented, and always willing to support each other. It’s moments like these, filled with kindness and generosity, that remind me why I love the world of pastry. Looking back, I feel incredibly fortunate to have had the opportunity to work in such a magical, albeit challenging, environment.